| Costa Rica Venture log (2005-07-15 -> 2005-08-04)
Leaders: Liz Howell, Jay Kenney, Laura Musser
Students: Catherine Drummond, Matt Giralamo, Witt Harlin, Lauren Izard, Clay Maxwell, John McClelland, Phillip Neal, Cordon Smart, Meggie Tuthill, Carrie Watts, Anna Brooks Whichard, Mere Bailey Wynne and Ashley Zeiger.
Sunday, July 17
Finalmente, estamos en Costa Rica! It seems like we've waited all summer, but our adventure has finally begun. We have a great group from all over the country, and all of us are getting geared up for what promises to be an unforgettable experience.
The trip began at the airport with most flights arriving on time. We spent the first day getting to know each other and finding out that yes, people from Alabama and Michigan actually do have things in common. After a delicious pasta dinner, we participated in our first Moonup by discussing our goals. Matt, whose irresistible nickname "Geronimo" seems to be permanent, was particularly eloquent when he said, "Basically, I'm here to have fun." Catherine added a little more by discussing her desire to get out of town and do something different. We all could admit to feeling the same way.
On Day 2, we slept off our travel weariness and took our time making a hearty pancake breakfast. Carrie took control of the operation and backed up her claim to be the "number one flipper" in San Jose. After breakfast, we divided up into Spanish 1 and Spanish 2. The kids with ample Spanish experience helped those with no experience, and they all came up with a list of 40 important expressions and words that will come in handy as the trip moves forward. John proved that the Alabama accent adds a certain debonair quality to the Spanish language. Clay was also particularly helpful. We all know how he feels about cats now, too.
After the Spanish lesson, we broke up into different teams and embarked upon a photo scavenger hunt throughout San Jose. It was a good way to see a new city, and the field trip made quite an impression on everyone. Lauren hit the ground running, literally. She must have taken 500 pictures as she ran off with her group. Cordon also lived it up. He hugged many strangers, made many new friends, and even donned a Costa Rican dress for a funny picture. It was hilarious.
We returned to the hostel for some chill time before dinner. Anna Brooks, Whit, and Catherine, aka the "Zucchini Master," accompanied Laura to the grocery store to stock up on supplies for the coming days. Then, Clay, Lauren, and Carrie helped prepare a bomber fajita dinner. After filling our bellies, we discussed the basics of packing a pack and staying warm and dry.
Day 3 (today) was the when the real action began. A bus picked us up early in the morning and drove us out to El Valle Escondido (Hidden Valley) for a canopy tour. After being outfitted with harnesses, carabiners, and pulleys, the group hiked into the cloud forest for a day of zipping and swinging through the trees, Tarzan style. There were approximately 12 platforms connected by long, cable zip lines. Each kid flew through the air along the zip line. About halfway through the day, we stopped at the Tarzan swing. It was a 50 foot cable hanging down from high above. We clipped in and swung out. You could hear Mere Bailey scream from two miles away, but of course, it was out of sheer delight rather than fear. Meguie also particularly enjoyed the cable swing. It must have reminded her of the thrills of skiing down a tall mountain on a powder day.
The highlight, though, was the grand finale. The final zip line was a half mile long cable that seemed to go on forever. All 13 kids felt the thrill of speed and height as they flew through the Costa Rican sky. The view wasn't too shabby, either.
The trip has gotten off to a great start already. We have a solid group of kids, with plenty of Moondance veterans. Phil and Whit have already risen to leadership roles, using their previous Moondance experience to help guide the others and answer questions. But veterans aren't the only leaders. Ashley has already proven to be a friend to everyone, and her worldly awareness has helped her set the tone for how to be a good traveler in a foreign country. This group couldn't be any stronger, and it's only Day 3. We are all excited about what's in store. The sky is the limit, indeed.
July 25, 2005
We went into the rainforest as strangers; we came out as close friends. It was a meaningful excursion, indeed.
The second phase of our Costa Rica Venture began when Freddy Fonseca, our local tico guide, met us at our hostel in San Jose. We went to bed early that night, woke up even earlier, and were on a bus headed out of town by 6:30 am. We drove south through Quepos, catching a glimpse of the Pacific Ocean along the way. Then, we headed East up what seemed like an unending dirt road. The bus dropped us off at the trailhead around noon, we ate a quick lunch, and we set out upon the trail. The first day of backpacking was challenging as always. We spent a lot of time getting used to the weight of packs and the use of muscles that we heretofore did not know existed. And making it all more difficult was the fact that most of the day was a steady uphill climb. Nevertheless, our group proved to be a collection of troopers and we made it to our first homestay with time to spare. Matt had the quote of the day when he said, ´I think I underestimated the backpacking part...I thought it would kind of be like a stroll through the park.´ No, Matt; backpacking is a little more difficult than that, but you did a great job as a first timer nonetheless. Mere Bailey was also a first time backpacker and she handled it like a seasoned veteran. Apparently, it takes more than a heavy pack and a steep incline to faze these kids.
Our homestay that night was perfect. After a rejuvenating swim/bath in el Rio Blanco, we all returned to the house for a delicious Costa Rican meal. Rice, beans, fresh fruit, salad, and fried plantains...are you sure we’re not here for the food alone? After dinner, we pulled out our sleeping bags and ground pads and set up our beds on the front porch of the house. We fell asleep listening to the sounds of the rainforest and anticipating another great day of backpacking.
Day 2 of the backpacking section is by far the most challenging day of this trip. The first part involves a steep uphill climb to the top of a ridge in the sticky humidity of a jungle morning. Then, once you reach the top, you spend the next hour or so descending through a thick rainforest over the thickest, sloppiest mud you’ve ever seen. It is not for the weak minded, but it was perfect for our group. Catherine impressed everyone that day. The morning climb was a major challenge for her, but she never gave up. Her perseverance not only helped her tackle the mountain; it also set the example for the group for how to overcome a challenge with grace and determination. During the descent to our second homestay, John made everyone laugh with his graceful attempts to stay on his two feet. Although his hefty six foot frame might help him on the basketball court, it proved to be a disadvantage on the tenuous, muddy trail. He spent as much time picking himself up off the ground as he did negotiating the difficult trail. No worries, though. He led the pack with laughter and seemed to genuinely enjoy the experience. Humility goes a long way in the backcountry.
We finally reached Freddy’s house around lunchtime. We quickly changed out of our muddy boots and into dry clothes and then sat down for what would become one of many feasts. It was delicious after a long day of hiking. Cordon was in heaven, especially. Mountain sized portions of beans. Endless supplies of rice, juice and bread. This food could take on even the most incessant of appetites, and Cordon put it to the test.
For the next four days, we stayed at Freddy’s house and participated in a variety of outdoor adventure activities. One day, we rappelled a waterfall. Carrie overcame her fear of heights and descents and rappelled like a champion. She surely inspired the others. Another day, we hiked an hour to the top of a ridge and went spelunking. Over the course of two hours, all of the kids entered the cave and explored all of its nooks and crannies. Then, once the exploration had been completed, they all climbed back out of the cave. Lauren proved to be an adept climber and scaled the cave wall as if she had done it many times before.
In addition to our outdoor activities, we also had some great cultural experiences. One afternoon, we killed two chickens for dinner. It was quite a harrowing process, but it was good for the kids to see where their food comes from. Phil had the responsibility of holding one of the chickens down while Ashley cut off its head at the neck. Phil said the whole experience was quite surreal...he was the last person to hold the animal when it was alive and the first to hold it when it was dead. Ashley also felt the impact of the experience. Although she’d hunted before, she’d never killed an animal on such an intimate level. Nevertheless, she said that she felt more complete after having done it.
Another cultural highlight was spending time in a sweat lodge. All sixteen of us drank an herbal tea to cleanse our insides and submerged ourselves in the river to cleanse our outsides. Then, we entered the small, stone sauna for 20 minutes at a time. Some of us used the time to just relax and let the intense heat soothe our tired bodies. Others used it to meditate and take advantage of the spiritual cleansing the sauna also offered. Although everyone enjoyed the experience, Whit seemed to get the most out of it. He was focused yet at peace the entire time, and he kept going back for more. It was great to see him get so much out of it.
Perhaps the best part of our time at Freddy’s house was the amount of time we had to relax and hang out. Whether it was getting to know Freddy’s parents Rosa and Alvino, or spending time writing in journals and reading books, we all made the most out of the down time. Meguie had a great time practicing her Spanish with Uda, the five year old son who lived there. Of course, she also used her time to finish one book and make it halfway through another. Clay used his time to pick up a new skill...the flute. Laura had brought a wooden flute with her from Ecuador, and Clay jumped on the opportunity to learn to play an instrument. By the end of our stay there, his rendition of ´Three Blind Mice´ was near perfect. He’ll be playing the Kennedy Center soon!
On our last day, we packed up our packs and set out on the trail. It was an easy yet fulfilling hike, and everyone handled it well. It was sad to leave Freddy’s, but we were all excited about the next phase. Using a combination of taxis and buses, we made our way down south to Puerto Jimenez. Tomorrow, we’ll meet up with our guides for 4 days of sea kayaking in the Gulfo Dulce. We’re all very excited.
The group has gelled very well, and the leaders could not be more impressed with the kids´ ability to tackle challenges and make the most of this incredible experience. Although we are blessed with leaders, Anna Brooks has especially risen to meet the leadership challenge. She is not the most vocal person (she mostly leaves that job to the boys), but she has befriended everyone and she has set the example for how to have a constant positive attitude. We’re having a blast so far, and we can’t wait to see what awaits us around the corner.
July 28, 2005
In Spanish, the word for "sea" is "mar." According to Ernest Hemingway, the people who refer to it as the feminine "la mar" think of the sea as a giver or withholder of special privileges, kind of like a mother. The people who refer to it as the masculine "el mar" think of it as a contestant, a challenge, or even an enemy. During our sea kayaking section, it was both...we experienced our fair share of privileges, but we were also faced with ample challenges. Both made the trip one that will not soon be forgotten.
We put our boats in the water around noon on the first day. Phil practically ran into the water and struggled to contain his excitement. Memories of his last sea kayaking expedition with Moondance leaped about in his head, and he quickly named his boat "Vanilla Fudge," just like last summer. John was equally excited, and much to our chagrin, started comparing the Golfo Dulce to the Moblie Bay. He also named his boat the "CSS Alabama." You think he's proud of where he comes from?
The first day of paddling was great, but it was difficult as well. Clay and Jay struggled to keep their plastic boat sailing in a straight line. They quickly named it the "Tanker" because it handled itself like a barge. However, Clay did manage to catch an exotic looking fish. It was also immediately apparent that Carrie had grown up around the sea. At every free moment, she jumped in the water for a quick swim. The sun was hot that day, but a nice breeze kept us all feeling pretty mellow. We pulled into the campsite during the late afternoon, just in time to enjoy a leisurely swim before dinner.
We woke up early the next day for another full day of paddling. The water was smooth and calm and the clouds looked like giant pillows resting atop the mountains in the horizon. It was a pleasure to watch Whit at work. His experience as a kayaker was evident with every stroke, and he seemed lost in the moment at all times. We paddled quickly and efficiently, and were thus rewarded with plenty of opportunities to take a break, go for a swim, or pinch ourselves to make sure that were truly experiencing something as cool as this. We had lunch on a beautiful black sand beach. Whit and Matt spent most of the time participating in their newest favorite hobby...coconut harvesting. Although it is easy to find coconuts on the Costa Rican beaches, it is not easy to open them. But the boys were not willing to take no for an answer. Thus, it was quite entertaining for the rest of us to watch them bang, kick, or throw coconuts onto the nearest blunt object they could find. Finally, they opened the coconuts, and much to our delight, shared their bounty with the rest of us. It's hard to beat fresh coconut on the beach.
That night, we camped at another black sand beach and feasted on a delicious stir fry dinner. Ashley and Mere Bailey led the way in the kitchen, and they played a great prank on the rest of the group. As she approached the eating area with her pot full of goodness, she pretended to drop the food. Liz played along and said, "Oh, it's all right. We have plenty of peanut butter." Cordon and Phil fell hook, line, and sinker for the joke, and we all had a good laugh.
The next day might go down in history as the greatest day of all our lives. The weather was beautiful. The sun was just intense enough to bronze the skin but not ruin the day. The water, as always, was perfect. After a leisurely morning paddle, we stopped for several hours at yet another gorgeous black sand beach. We ate lunch and then kicked back and enjoyed some quality beach time. Finally, it was time to head to our campsite. But as we were moving out, a storm started to move in.
Luckily, the campsite was a mere 20 minutes away, and everyone paddled quickly. Just as were beaching the kayaks for the night, the bottom of the sky dropped out. For the next 4 hours, we were treated to the best storm any of us had ever seen. John, Clay, Cordon, Catherine, and Ashley sat outside in the rain, propped themselves up on a beached kayak, and enjoyed some more fresh coconuts. Mere Bailey and Lauren enjoyed watching the rain from underneath a roof -- and they enjoyed being dry even more. As the rain subsided, the lightning picked up. Safely tucked beneath our cabin's roof, we all watched nature's electricity light up the dark sky and munched on mac and cheese, black beans, and fried plantains. Anna Brooks later said that watching the storm was more entertaining than any movie she'd ever seen.
After an early dinner, we Mooned Up, and tried to fall asleep early. Then, at the wee hour of 3 am, we woke up again to begin our final day of paddling. The reason for the early wake up time was to allow enough time to be on the water for the sunrise. We broke camp and had our boats in the water in less than an hour. Soon, we were gliding across the water in pitch darkness with only headlamps to guide us. Some of us felt like George Washington's troops crossing the Delaware River. Others felt like they were in heaven. It's hard to imagine a more placid setting. Around 5 am, we took a break to watch the sun rise. Unfortunately, it was an overcast morning and the colors were not as vibrant as they could have been. However, it was still a beautiful sight. Catherine must have been inspired because she never stopped paddling once our break was over.
Our mid sea chill session was cut short by looming storm clouds, and we had to be on our way. The closer we got to shore, the rougher the sea got and the harder rain fell. Clay had abandoned the "Tanker" several days prior, and Jay and Cordon were stuck with the plastic barge. Cordon, however, embraced the challenge of piloting the "Tanker" over and through the choppy water. He and Jay finished the last half mile in a full out sprint. They overtook Lauren, Ashley, Carrie, and Liz, who were too busy singing Aretha
Franklin to notice or care. Then, they passed Phil who was more interested in taking in the sights. Finally, the tried to pass Anna Brooks and Meguie, but the girls managed to hold on to their lead as they crossed the finish line. Meguie didn't really even seem to notice that a race was on. She paddled leisurely and laughed at the two meatheads trying to sprint the barge into shore.
We all felt good about what we had accomplished, but we also began to get a little teary eyed because we knew the end was near. Nevertheless, we're excited about what lies ahead. We'll go surfing for the next four days, and then we'll finish up with an awesome rafting trip down the Pacuare River. It's going to be an action packed final week.
Sunday, July 31, 2005
Long days of surfing and monkey filled forests...this adventure keeps getting more interesting.
Before we even had a chance to digest all that we saw and did on the sea kayaking section, we were back at it, getting ready to surf. Our taxis picked us up at the crack of dawn on the first day and drove us an hour to Pan Dulce, a beginner’s beach around the corner from Matapalo, a world famous surfing spot at the point where the Golfo Dulce meets the Pacific Ocean.
Our first day of surfing was invigorating yet challenging. Most of us had never surfed before, and the waves had their way with us. Nevertheless, as the day wore on, everyone got the hang of it and rode at least a handful of waves. Shortly after she called it quits for the day, Meguie declared that she’d found her new favorite sport. After seeing her surf, it looks like she might trade Colorado powder days for sunny days on the beach. Clay and Laura had to make their way to have his hand checked out after slipping on the trail. He’s doing great and glad to get him back with the group.
The second day of surfing turned out to be one of the best days of the trip. The sun was high in the sky, there were few clouds, and the waves were big, frequent, and easy to catch. Everyone surfed and had a blast. Cordon picked it up really quickly and had the longest rides of the day. You would have never guessed that this was his first time surfing. Lauren also did really well. It turns out her surfing experience in Hawaii last year really paid off.
For some of us, the draw to the Costa Rican beach wasn’t the waves but the sand. Plenty of us had no problem letting the others surf while we chilled on the beach. Although Catherine was a great surfer, she spent the second half of the day sitting in the shade and taking it all in. Mere Bailey used the time to catch up on her reading and on her sleep. It was hard not to relax on that gorgeous beach. John had the worst luck of anyone. For some reason, the jellyfish loved him. He managed to get stung at least once every day. Then, when he came in to relax on the beach, Anna Brooks and
Carrie somehow convinced him to let them bury him in the sand. I guess he thought it would help sooth his stings. Meanwhile, Phil kept catching waves. He spent as much time in the water as any other kid on the trip, and he was one of the most fun to watch surf.
The final day of surfing was just as great as the others, except now, we were surfing like experts. Matt issued the quote of the trip as he paddled out after riding a long wave: ¨This is so much fun...each day keeps getting better.¨ We could not have agreed more. At the end of the day, Ashley was trying to figure out what were the closest waves to Princeton or Birmingham. Whit calculated how many lawns he’d have to mow to earn enough money to buy his own surfboard. It is fair to say that we were all hooked on surfing.
Tomorrow, our bus will take us back to San José and from there we will leave to go rafting. After two days of that adventure, we’ll return to the capital city, eat our banquet dinner, have our final Moon Up, and get ready to go to the airport for our return home. The end is near, for sure. But we’re all having such a great time that we refuse to acknowledge how little time we have left. Instead, we’re living in the moment and taking it all in. We still have 5 action packed days together, and we’re going to make the most of them.
8-5-05
And just like that, the dream was over. Three weeks seemed like three minutes in our Costa Rican paradise.
After finishing up our surfing section, we survived the 10 hour journey back to San Jose. The next morning, our rafting guides picked us up and bussed us out to the Pacuare River. Along the way, we stopped for a scenic, mountainside breakfast. Everyone talked and laughed, but we were also wary of how near the end was. Matt lingered after his meal to reminisce with Jay about the entire trip. He was amazed at how much fun he had already had, how many new and different things he'd already seen. Indeed, the adventure surpassed all of his expectations.
After breakfast, we got back in the bus and finished the trip to the Pacuare River. Everyone was outfitted with a life jacket, a helmet, and a paddle. Somehow, Anna Brooks ended up in the all-guys boat. She had a blast though, and paddled harder than most of her mates. Of course, she almost broke Jay's leg along the way, but we'll gladly blame that on the rafting guide who seemed to take pleasure in trying to throw his passengers out of the boat. Carrie enjoyed being on a different boat. Her ride was more laid back, and she enjoyed the peace and opportunity to work on her tan.
The first day of paddling was short, and we arrived at the Pacuare Lodge just in time for lunch. Afterwards, we had a full afternoon to chill, read, write, and soak up our last days together. In the late afternoon, the kids organized a capture the flag game that would go down in the history books as one of the best games ever played. Guys versus girls, huge grassy open spaces, thick vine infested forests, cabins, trees, ditches. Talk about an ideal playing field. It was an evenly matched game, and everyone took it seriously. John even played part of the game in his underwear. He was changing pants after a spill in the mud when he saw Liz approaching his territory. Instead of re-clothing himself first, he burst into the field to chase Liz down. He didn't catch her, but he proved his dedication to the team nonetheless. Another gritty performance came from Catherine. Clad in all black, she stealthily stalked the perimeter, snuck up from behind, and broke several of her teammates out of jail. In the end, the girls won. They had a two person advantage on their team, and they used their advantage to defeat the boys. Some things never change.
That night's Moon Up was awesome. We all discussed five things that we want to do in our lifetime. Ashley wants to earn a pilot's license and fly formation with her dad and grandfather. Phil wants to prove that a Wahoo can drink its own weight in bourbon. Witt wants to fight Chuck Norris and win.
After Moon Up, we were treated to the Moondance Costa Rica Song and Dance Spectacular. Cordon impressed everyone with his rousing dance moves while John provided the soundtrack. "Sweet Home Alabama" and "Fishin' in the Dark" never sounded so good.
After breakfast the next morning, we quickly got back on the river. Most of the day was filled with intense Class 3 and Class 4 rapids. The Pacuare is a great river for whitewater, and the kids had a blast navigating and seeking thrills in the rapids. During one rapid, Lauren took a seat on the front edge of the boat for a bird's eye view of the rapids. You could tell by the giant smile on her face that she was loving it.
The lulls in the river were fun, too. During one long stretch of calm water, a pirate fight broke out. Phil and Matt led the way, boarding other boats, throwing people in the water, and then capturing them onto their original boat. Catherine was one of the first prisoners. While she was sitting on the boys' boat, unbeknownst to her, one of the guides tied a piece of webbing to her life jacket. Later, she tried to run and jump off the boat. However, the cord yanked her back and she crashed into the rubber side on the boat. Everyone on the river was in stitches. Clay got into the action, too. Despite having a cast on his right hand, he plunged into the river for a swim. A broken finger couldn't ruin the fun we were having that day.
We finished on the river a little after lunchtime and made our way back to San Jose. That night, we went shopping in the local market. Meguie seemed to determined to buy everyone she knew something from Costa Rica. She will not return to the States with a shortage of souvenirs. After the shopping spree, we ate our banquet dinner at a local restaurant. Although Cordon's birthday had been the day before, we got the mariachi singers to perform for him. After dinner, we returned to our hostel and conducted our final Moon Up. It was a touching event and everyone shared their favorite memories about the trip. Mere Bailey was particularly eloquent in her description as she thanked everyone for making this summer one of the best ever.
The locals in Costa Rica frequently say, "Pura Vida." It means "pure life," and it can be used as a greeting, a farewell, a way to say thank-you, or a way to express satisfaction. The Moondance Costa Rica venture was indeed pura vida. There were plenty of tears and hugs at the airport, and not one person, student or leader, failed to be touched by this special experience. We all lamented that it went by too fast, but we agreed that it was one of the greatest summers of our lives. We have loads of photos to show and stories to tell, and we look forward to seeing just how life-defining these past three weeks have been. Pura Vida.
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